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Scotland. Even the name of the country causes something to stir in my McKenzie blood. The last time I was there in 1994 we didn't get to the North Western Highlands and so in early September, between the high season/ school holidays and autumn proper, we drove 2845km (1768 miles) in our tiny 698cc car to scratch that itch. Here is our admittedly full but rewarding route and accommodation plan, complete with downloadable maps, KML files for Google Earth, and itinerary/ POI files for TomTom navigation devices. For more photographs, see here.

Day 1: Home to Glasgow

Although not itself in the Highlands (as demarcated roughly by the Highland Boundary Fault), Glasgow served as the staging point for our expedition. We arrived mid-afternoon after a long drive so had several hours in which to visit Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum, the overrated SECC beside the black waters of the Clyde (not comparable to the Sydney Opera House as suggested), and the civic centre.

We stayed centrally at the Thistle, a tired hotel not deserving of four stars (the window sill in our room had been used as an ashtray; we were flabbergasted to see a smoker puffing away in the corridor beneath a smoke alarm; housekeeping fit pillow cases inside-out, etc.).

There's free WiFi for patrons at the Kama Sutra Indian restaurant—if you find yourself in the, err... position without it (excellent food with excellent service too).

Day 2: Glasgow to Kilchoan

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Route and points of interest for Day 2

Not far from Glasgow, the dilapidated Balloch Castle is set in a fairly ordinary country park with views over Loch Lomond. You might however prefer to spend more time at Luss, a quaint conservation village with view of the Loch and Ben Lomond, a mountain on the far shore.

Continuing up the A82 you might optionally stop at the Falls of Falloch (the turn-off is easy to miss—we did), or continue to Bridge of Orchy—likely a nice picnic spot if it isn't raining. From here you feel like you are in the Highlands "proper" (you are), and you'll hopefully be rewarded with a good view from the rest stop as you climb out of the valley (perhaps seeing deer).

Passing through Glencoe catch the small Corran ferry, a short trip that puts you on the other side of Loch Linnhe and the Great Glen Fault. Your westward progress will now slow as you tackle the mostly single-track and often wooded road out to Kilchoan; you'll be ready to arrive before you do (there are public toilets at the Community Centre in Kilchoan that may come in handy, also tourist information).

We stayed at the Sonachan Hotel, still further west on the Ardnamurchan Peninsula. It offers a recently refurbished and pleasant restaurant with good food (shame the local mussels were on the board but unavailable) although not so attentive service. The breakfast room isn't so contemporary, and there's free WiFi (broadband, out here—really!). That evening you'll want to visit the lighthouse to capture sunset from the most westerly point on the British mainland.

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Sunset from the Ardnamurchan Lighthouse

Download this route plan (.itn, .ov2, .kml, .pdf as 775KB .zip)

Day 3: Kilchoan to Balmacara

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Route and points of interest for Day 3

If you get an early start you should have time to back-track from the turn-off before Kilchoan to Sanna Bay, passing through a large volcanic "ring" or caldera that, to be honest, is very difficult to appreciate from the ground. Sadly it rained so heavily we didn't get out of the car and you can't see the supposedly fine beach from the car park.

If you want to glimpse Mingary Castle continue past the Community Centre in Kilchoan to the ferry pier (connecting to Mull), from where you can see it without having to hike in. You will want to visit the ruin of Castle Tioram, reached via a side road off the A861, and located on a small island in a picturesque estuarine setting.

If you're lucky the evening light will nicely illuminate Eilean Donan (apparently Britain's most photographed castle) at Dornie. Coming from Balmacara there's a left turn just after the bridge and before the castle that takes you on a high road for views over Eilean Donan and down the loch towards the Five Sisters of Kintail (complete the loop by returning on the A87).

We stayed for two nights in Balmacara at Balmacara Mains, billed as luxary contemporary accommodation. The breakfast was above average, there was free WiFi, however it lacked a personal touch and room servicing was neglected. The Seafood Restaurant inside the Railway Buildings in Kyle of Lochalsh did good food.

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Evening light on Eilean Donan

Download this route plan (.itn, .ov2, .kml, .pdf as 750KB .zip)

Day 4: The Isle of Skye

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Route and points of interest for Day 4

You're looking at an actual track log rather than a route plan in the above map; I was unable to overcome RouteBuddy's idiosyncratic routing or inability to handle return routes to plot this without employing multiple extraneous waypoints.

Skye is probably bigger than you think (it's also much harder to spell after installing a popular VoIP service). A full day will be required to encompass stops in Portree, viewing the Old Man of Storr and Kilt Rock Waterfall, negotiating the pass through the Quiraing Mountains to the worthwhile Skye Museum of Island Life, perhaps learning about tanning (Skyeskyns) and the natural dying of yarn (Shilasdair, with views to Isle of Lewis), visiting Dunvegan Castle, and watching the shadows move across the Cuillin.

A meal at the Plockton Inn would be our suggestion for the second night (especially if there's folk music on). You might have another crack at photographing Eilean Donan too if the weather is more conducive.

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Ever-changing shadows on the Cuillin

Download this route plan (.ov2, .kml, .pdf as 692KB .zip)

Day 5: Balmacara to Ullapool

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Route and points of interest for Day 5

If you didn't manage to visit the compact harbour-side village of Plockton the previous evening (or didn't see it by day) optionally visit before continuing north. At Shieldaig you can relieve yourself of that morning coffee and watch the seals frolic in the bay, aiming for lunch beside the reflections on Loch Maree in the Beinn Eighe, Britain's first National Nature Reserve. Soon after the brown sign for Victoria Falls can be safely ignored (a flushing toilet is more dramatic); you might choose to visit Inverewe Garden the far side of Poolewe, or continue to Corrieshalloch Gorge.

At the Gorge the Falls of Measach can be appreciated from both the suspension bridge and observation platform. Braemore Square Country House is close by, offering a comfortable and personal B&B experience with WiFi and a guest kitchen (£2.50 surcharge) which, after a visit to the Tesco in Ullapool, makes it the best value accommodation in our itinerary. Ullapool was a MacKenzie stronghold; we could understand why they left, as there's not much to commend it.

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Reflections on Loch Maree

Download this route plan (.itn, .ov2, .kml, .pdf as 929KB .zip)

Day 6: Ullapool to Lochinver

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Route and points of interest for Day 6

North of Ullapool you reach the North West Highlands Geopark, an area worthy of an extended visit. If Donald the geologist is on duty at Knockan Crag the term "Moine thrust" will become ingrained in your memory (so will the thrill of spanning 500 million years with your thumb and forefinger!). A bit further into the park near Inchnadamph the Bone Caves make for a worthwhile hike (see pebbles dance in the springs). Ardvreck Castle on Loch Assynt (seen in the movie Highlander) was captured by my ancestors in 1672; you should be able to capture some good photos hereabouts. The A837 follows the northern shore of Loch Assynt; look out for the small and photogenic tree-clad islands on the way to Lochinver.

We enjoyed a cold dinner sitting in the car during a downpour, after which taking a stroll on Achmeivich Beach. We spent two nights at Eadar Da' Sloc, an inspiring open-plan design that involves more contact with your B&B hosts than is usual (the WiFi wasn't working for our stay).

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Bone Cave with a view

Download this route plan (.itn, .ov2, .kml, .pdf as 722KB .zip)

Day 7: North West Highlands Geopark

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Route and points of interest for Day 7

Again you're looking at an actual track log rather than a route plan in the above map; we didn't have one planned and it's just easier that way!

From Lochinver head down the coast road for Achiltilbuie until you come to an obvious car park for the Falls of Kirkaig; the walk in and out will occupy the morning, and the bookshop near the car park serves good soup for lunch.

Continue on the road to Achnahaird Sands (a rather decent beach), where you might spot some lunatic plunging into the surf! The Sands also offer a panoramic sweep of several of the Geopark's notable mountains. Beyond Brae of Achnahaird there is a great view to be had over the Summer Isles, and further along the road you can sample the local catch at Polbain Smokehouse in Altandhu. There may or may not be a ferry operating to the Isles, and sea kayaking should be possible to arrange in season.

Close the loop and back-track to the next junction, taking the right fork (you came from the left) to pass between Stac Pollaidh to your left and Loch Lurgainn to your right—a scenic drive back to join the A385 at Drumrunie. If you're so inclined you might climb Stac Pollaidh, or return to Knockan Crag for less taxing views of it from the Crag top (if you missed it previously).

Instead of returning to Lochinver via the A837, veer towards Kylesku and take the winding coast road (B869) for views over Eddrachillis Bay and the beaches of Clashnessie, Clachtoll, and Achmeivich. For dinner try the pies at the Lochinver Larder.

Alternative activities might include exploring Culag Woods, regarding Old Man Stoer, or taking a boat trip from Kylesku (pending sufficient interest) to Eas a' Chual Aluinn—Britain's highest trickle waterfall.

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Overlooking the Summer Isles

Download this route plan (.ov2, .kml, .pdf as 402KB .zip)

Day 8: Lochinver to Durness

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Route and points of interest for Day 8

Handa Island Bird Sanctuary is reached by boat from Tarbet and offers cliff-top walks and the chance to see puffins, but closes at the end of August (so we missed out). Never mind, this leaves plenty of time to detour to the beaches at Oldshoremore and Sandwood Bay (arguably the best beach in the UK). Allow 4 hours return for the latter, which is a 13km round trip along a well-formed path from the car park at Blairmore.

Hope you brought a packed lunch and coffee to fortify you for the remainder of the drive through to Durness, the mainland's most north-westerly village (a mere 3507km from the North Pole). In Durness MacKays Rooms & Restaurant is the place to stay (albeit at a price, although a down underlay and duvet in a king-size bed are most comfortable!). There's WiFi here too, and the restaurant service was excellent but the food varied from bland to tasty—do try the whiskey porridge in the morning, however.

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Oldshoremore is more accessible than Sandwood

Download this route plan (.itn, .ov2, .kml, .pdf as 553KB .zip)

Day 9: Durness to Inverness

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Route and points of interest for Day 9

Durness has nice beaches to the west and east, but the main tourist attraction is the Smoo Cave—one of the largest cave entrances in Britain and the site of Stone Age middens (but no show cave if that's what you're expecting). The sink hole waterfall within the cave depends upon recent rainfall; £3 boat trips will take you deeper inside with local personality Colin. If he hasn't woken up yet take a walk out past the viewpoint, from where you can sight the Orkney Islands on the horizon.

We found the long cross-country drive to Dunrobin Castle on the East coast tiring, but the onward leg to Inverness via the B9176 afforded a bit more variation in scenery. The city of Inverness no doubt has its charms, but they appear well hidden (that they were digging up most of the roads didn't help).

Avalon Guest House proved to be a tidy and central lodging with an affable proprietor despite lacking that small B&B feel. There are plenty of restaurants within walking distance, but we offer no recommendation.

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Smoo Cave in Durness

Download this route plan (.itn, .ov2, .kml, .pdf as 7588KB .zip)

Day 10: Inverness to Inverary

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Route and points of interest for Day 10

Much of today's drive follows the line of the Great Glen Fault, but the detour to Glen Affric (containing one of the largest remaining stands of ancient Caledonian pines) is unmissable. We would recommend doing both the River Affric and Am Meallan (1.5km) and the Dog Falls and Coire Loch (6km) walks; if we had more time we'd have done the Loch Affric Circuit (18km) as well.

You can get decent views of what's left of Urquhart Castle without queuing for entrance with the coach-loads of tourists that stop there. Good luck getting a view of the top of Ben Nevis (Britain's highest peak) as you pass by, however, and passing by the unattractive sprawl of Fort William is probably justified. If you're thinking of climbing this serious mountain, heed the following advice from Billy Connelly:

Excerpt from Visiting Scotland (© Billy Connelly, 367KB .mp3)

From where you caught the Corran ferry to Bridge of Orchy you'll be covering the same ground as on the northward route, but just beyond Bridge of Orchy turn off right through the pleasant Glen Orchy on the B8074. Now follow the A819 into Inverary, beside Loch Fyne.

Mr Pia's in the village does good fish & chips and, yes, deep-fried Mars bars on request too. We stayed at the Loch Fyne Hotel & Spa; the room was fyne but they served the greasiest cooked breakfast I've ever partially eaten.

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Loch Affric from the Am Meallan viewpoint

Download this route plan (.itn, .ov2, .kml, .pdf as 894KB .zip)

Day 11: Inverary to home

In the morning you might like to visit Inverary Castle before taking the A83 to connect with the A82 and heading south beyond Glasgow.

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Loch Fyne the previous evening

A few tips

• RouteBuddy seriously underestimates journey time; TomTom isn't much better (Scottish B roads just aren't the same as English ones);
• We made a thermos of filter coffee each day; it helps with all the driving and wind chill;
• Drive with your lights on when using single-track roads, as it makes you slightly more visible even in sunlight;
• If you want to try deep-fried Mars bars visit Mr Pia's in Inverary, or keep one in your pocket and ask at every chippy you pass if they'll fry it for you;
• Hats, gloves, and thermals are worth taking even in September—it doesn't matter if you don't put them on;
• Buying bread, cheese, salami etc. for the the next couple of days saves of food costs (pack a chopping board, knife, Tupperware for butter, etc.);
• If you have more time, you could easily fill another day or two in the geopark based out of Lochinver;
• Don't leave the laptop thinking there won't be Internet; WiFi is very much available in the remote Highlands.

Notice the Geotag Icon preceding the captions above? The thumbnail enlargements contain embedded GPS coordinates, so you can see exactly where each picture was taken. When you Save for Web & Devices in Photoshop CS3 these data are stripped; I recommend GraphicConverter here as its Save for Web option allows you to preserve EXIF-GPS and IPTC information.