The Queen Charlotte Track is a 71km walk between Queen Charlotte and Kenepuru Sounds in Marlborough, at the top of New Zealand's South Island. Access and accommodation options are good whether you plan to carry your own kit over several days or send it ahead by water taxi while you enjoy a leisurely day walk.
Getting there
Our Sounds Air flight from Wellington to Picton took just 20 minutes, but the Cessna Caravan was delayed doing its morning mail run. We had no time to linger as we exited the shuttle bus to announce our just-in-time arrival to Endeavour Express, the water taxi company we booked to ferry us to Ship Cove—1 hours motoring along Queen Charlotte Sound.
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Flying in over the Marlborough Sounds
Ship Cove to Furneaux Lodge
To the right as you come off the jetty at Ship Cove is a memorial to Captain Cook, who resupplied and made repairs here on more than one occasion and where, on nearby Motuara Island in 1770, he claimed NZ for the British Empire. A couple of weka escorted us to the start of the track proper, and we climbed up and over the steep hill to Resolution Bay (4.5km). The green ferns, turquoise waters, and clear blue sky lent a tropical air, aided by the loudly chirping cicadas that signify a good NZ summer day.
At Resolution Bay we stopped at the Bush Café for "world famous" berry muffins and home-made lemonade (my cousin used to sell it at Grandpa's gate). To our acute embarrassment we had spent our cash on a taxi to the airport—but Megan took our order on the basis of an IOU! It's refreshing to know that this kind of trust still exists in NZ (other examples on the track were honesty boxes for jewelry and snacks).
The track was well-formed, compacted clay the result of a month-long dry spell, and in other places loose gravel (this being a little hazardous on steep descents). It was almost completely covered by bush, with a few brief clearings and, towards the end, a couple of paths down to rocky beaches.
We were the only walkers with full packs; most had day packs and sent their kit on ahead by water taxi. One family were even jogging the track! Ten point five kilometers from Resolution Bay we arrived at Furneaux Lodge, 4h 45min after setting out (half an hour of that resting/ eating). A beautiful spot, we braved the chilly water for a dip. This was followed by digging out a sea urchin spine from one of my toes (I then stabbed myself in the finger putting away the needle). A warm shower, comfortable accommodation, hot tea, and journalling passed the time nicely until dinner. A gourmet burger and beer-battered blue cod were washed down with ale as the sun set on Endeavour Inlet.
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Boat shed, Resolution Bay
Furneaux Lodge to Punga Cove
We took breakfast at Furneaux Lodge and collected our packed lunches before settling the bill—during the process of which we discovered our complimentary $50 upgrade. We had wondered if the heated floor tiles were standard... Shortly after Furneaux Lodge there is a 1h return walk to a waterfall. The fall was less than spectacular, suffering from a lack of water, but the track itself was through virgin native bush. Supplejacks tried to ensnare us, while proud roots vied to take our feet from under us. Sunlight danced on delicate Coprosma leaves in the cheerful glades, while the fungi-covered black trunks of epiphyte-encrusted ancient trees looked scorched and menacing.
We were 4 hours on the 11.7km track today, apparently having less spring in our step than the previous day. Perhaps this was because the weather was dull, but we both agreed that the scenery was less exciting. We stopped briefly to watch sheep being shorn at an isolated station, to photograph the weka, and to feed the sandflies while we consumed our own lunch. My 13kg pack felt like a fat suit, impeding movement and causing me to reflect on the extra physical stress that being obese must entail.
At Punga Cove Resort we waited for the absent receptionist, then cleaned up before waiting for a slow-service bar meal on the jetty. The resort was not unpleasant, but somehow lacked the charm of Furneaux. We needed some rest; tomorrow we would walk twice as far.
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The flightless native weka
Punga Cove to Portage Bay
They say an ant can lift at least 10 times its own body weight. Historians tell us that Roman soldiers lugged 30kg of equipment over considerable distances. Such statistics did little to lighten my step over the next 23.6km. We set out at 0800h, having collected our packed lunches and settled the bill. The weather looked as if it could go either way, with patches of blue intermingled with with rain-laden clouds.
From Kenepuru Saddle we followed the ridgeline towards Bay of Many Coves, passing through "Euroforest" with pine needles and fungi underfoot. We had stunning views over the sounds and coves, and made the first shelter after 2.5 hours walking. Another 2.75 hours brought us to the second shelter, and nearly 1.5 hours after that we had arrived at Portage Bay.
The walking was varied, with sections of pine forest intermixed with manuka scrub, beech forest, and punga. There were views to Picton in the distance, but certainly towards the end my gaze was focussed on avoiding a misstep on the uneven ground. We were passed by a few mountain bikers and encountered a couple of other walkers also carrying their own kit. After settling in at Treetops dinner was at the Snapper Café, part of the up-market Portage Resort Hotel (which we couldn't get into).
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The play of light and shadow, Queen Charlotte Sound
A rest day in Portage Bay
We got up to clear blue skies which persisted throughout the day. First to Portage Bay Shop for supplies, then it was back to Treetops to fix breakfast. It was around 1130h by the time we hired a two-person kayak ($60 for a half day). Our cameras were stowed in a dry sack, we donned life vests, and were shown the rudder mechanism (not something I'd used before; certainly easier than steering by paddle).
Striking out to the starboard headland we rounded this and steered for the sandbar separating the mainland from a triangular island. We beached the kayak and took a look around. Deciding to circumnavigate the island, we returned here, beaching on the other side after 1.5 hours paddling. After a short break we carried the kayak across the sandbar and jumped in. The wind had swung around completely and it pushed us (without the need to paddle) to the opposite side of the bay. We returned to kayak and spent the afternoon reading before eating again at the Snapper Café and watching the sun go down on a fine day.
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Sea kayaking from Portage Bay
Portage Bay to Anakiwa
There was cloud on the hills at 0830h as we set out on our final day on the track. It took us 2 hours to reach Mahia Saddle, a strenous climb (particularly the first hour). The cloud had descended to form mist but this had burned away by mid-morning. At Mahia a sign-posted toilet would have meant a 1 hour detour; the next at Mistletoe Bay would have involved a 40 minute descent and climb. We held out to Davies Bay Camp, an hour from Anakiwa: this leg was not ideal for toilet or shelter facilities.
From Mistletoe Bay the walking was much easier, and just over 6km from the end of the track we sighted Anakiwa. This last stretch was the most scenic since our first day, covered in both native and beech forest as the track followed the shoreline. Davis Bay Camp looked like an ideal spot if tents float your boat. Passing by a DOC employee on a quad bike clearing the track, we could now fully account for the dried foliage that had littered much of the track.
We emerged at Anakiwa soon after 1430h only to find our accommodation tacked a further 1km onto the 20.7km we had walked from Portage Bay. But Tirimoana House also offered the Blist'd Foot Café and a somewhat chilly outdoor pool. Wine and nibbles preceded dinner and continuing conversation; other guests had connections to Chesterfield and still others shared a common acquaintance in the UK. Six degrees of separation? It's only 2 in New Zealand...
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The last stretch hugs the shoreline
Getting home
After a glorious sunrise and hearty breakfast John gave us a lift into Picton, a half-hour drive. We had a quick look around and found some lunch before going to the Interislander terminal. We were required to hand over our packs for check-in and spent the 3.25 hour crossing to Wellington on the sundeck. A complimentary shuttle bus took us to the Railway Station and we walked home from there.
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Sunrise at Anakiwa
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Hi
This is a fantastic article promoting the queen charlotte track. Thankyou. We live in Picton and are trying to promote Picton and the Marlborough Sounds as a place to come for short breaks and fun. We run a site (www.pictonmarlborough.co.nz) with a blog about Picton and I was hoping you might consider linking to it to help us promote this beautiful part of New Zealand.
Thanks again.
mouli