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We travelled to China in Sep/Oct 2006 with CTS Horizons. The first part of our itinerary focused on China's waterways and gardens. This second part of our itinerary focused on China's history and ancient capital, with a visit to the terracotta army in Xi'an then The Great Wall and Forbidden City near/in Beijing. The third part of our itinerary focused on China's natural scenery.

Xi'an

Fri 22

As we drove through the agricultural region surrounding Hangzhou to the airport, we noted the particular style of architecture favoured by the wealthy farmers in this region. The houses were typically three-storied and would accommodate 3 generations—not counting the ashes of ancestors which were kept in a pavilion on the roof. The roof itself was topped by a decorative spike with a ball at its base. Surrounding allotments grew corn, mulberry (to feed silk worms), and various vegetables; there was no livestock and the only animals raised were fish. The airport was very modern and our domestic flight to Xi'an afforded us more leg room than our international one. The cabin crew were introduced formally and bowed to the passengers before commencing a passable in-flight meal service.

Xi'an is evidently less prosperous than Hangzhou and Shanghai, and probably would have been rather dusty but for the rain. On our way to the West Gate of the City Wall we passed by a number of imperial burial mounds. About 300 new cars add to the traffic every day in this city. Notably the government has introduced a regulation that buses and taxis must be converted to natural gas; China is doing this because it is paying the price of pollution, something that should be headed by the US (as the world's biggest polluter). Even in the drizzle the welcome ceremony at the Gate was a colourful spectacle of sight and sound. We were given replicas of Tang Dynasty passports and keys to the city as souvenirs and were welcomed by performers in Tang costume. Flag-waving, ribbon-dancing and pot-juggling were followed by the galloping horse dance in the presence of the "Emperor" and his lady. Then we had the opportunity to be photographed with these dignitaries and purchase the pictures. The city walls are original and about 1000 years old: broad, wide, surrounded by a moat, and stretching to the horizon in either direction. They were overlooked by the archery tower, protecting the West Gate from intruders.

Putting aside our initial reservations we took the optional evening excursion which involved a dumpling dinner followed by Tang era music and dance.

Theatrical welcome, Xi'an

Xi'an

Sat 23

The bus took us to the mausoleum of the first Qin Emperor, where the terra-cotta army was found in the 1970s. Damaged by the decay and collapse of the wooden roof, and by ancient vandalism, many of the pieces were smashed while many more have yet to be excavated. The largest pit is contained within a huge hangar-like building, poorly lit and preventing us from getting too close. Photography was thus challenging (also due to pushing-and-shoving by Chinese tourists). We visited three pits in total, the smallest containing only 68 warriors. There were a number of pony-sized horses and archers in a crouching position, but the majority were life-size soldiers standing without their weapons (stolen in antiquity or decayed over the millennia). There were remnants of paint visible on a few figures. We bought a book autographed by the farmer credited with making the find. Although impressive there was not the row-upon-row of warriors with the visual impact we had been expecting. Another hall displayed delicate bronze chariots. This same emperor also began construction of The Great Wall; some two million people—about 1/10th of the population at that time—were conscripted to work on the tomb and wall.

Passing by roadside stalls selling pomegranates, we came to a shopping complex that also served food: here we had a disappointing lunch. Great Wild Goose pagoda had a slight lean due to subsidence, but was otherwise a bland brick building bustling with tourists. The muslim quarter contained a Chinese muslim mosque that was hidden away in the depths of a bazaar. The courtyards and architecture looked to us more like archetypal Chinese constructions rather than Islamic design. In any case it was a tranquil place to spend a short while before re-emerging in modern Xi'an. As we got onto the bus a beggar indicated he needed food, stooping low and dragging his leg as if crippled. As we pulled away he stood fully erect and walked off with a normal gait—obviously a professional actor.

Terracotta warriors, Xi'an

Beijing

Sun 24

Factory alert!

The day began with yet another forced factory-shop visit, this time for jade. The explanation was cursory as we walked briskly past the "workers" in order to better informed about qualities we should look for in making a purchase. The Mausoleum of the Han Emperor at Yangling was more to our taste: A big museum had been built over the pits where thousands of miniature puppets and animals had been found, providing a court for the entombed emperor. In little plastic overshoes we walked over glass floors allowing a view of the trenches below. The emperor's tomb has not been opened yet: whether this is due to shortness of funding or, as the guides say, the wish to wait for better technology to preserve the expected artifacts—or the potential disappointment over the mausoleum having been cleared out by grave robbers in antiquity—is not clear.

A short flight took us to Beijing, the capital of China, home to 12 million people and workplace of a further 8 million. Everywhere preparations for the Olympics in 2008 were already underway. New hotels, new roads, etc. Not enough roads so far, as the 2nd Ring Road is like a giant car park during the 24-hour rush "hour". After checking in at the Jianguo Hotel we met with new Internet friends Kevin & Jinjin. We spent a most enjoyable evening over a hot-pot. The small Chinese restaurant (that we probably would not have entered by ourselves) whipped out the gas-bottle & tabletop gas ring, causing a cloud of ash whilst lighting the ring with a disposable napkin. They produced a bowl full of steaming spiced broth into which we dunked meat and vegetable. Delicious! Sharing stories of love, life and Internet across the continents we had a great evening. Thanks a million, Kevin & Jinjin: we look forward to hearing more stories via the Weifang Radish!

Burial pit, Yangling Museum, Xi'an

Beijing

Mon 25

The day started grey and drizzling. After a short bus ride we walked across Tiananmen Square, followed by a few hours in the Forbidden City. During the drive Karen spoke about religious "freedom" in modern China, saying that you were free to choose to register as a believer for any of the three legal religions—although doing so would prevent membership of the Communist Party thus impairing your chances of promotion (if a government worker). Obviously not free as in beer.

Tiananmen Square is big, very big. It is, however, "planted" with buildings, flagpoles, memorials and such like and thus is not as impressive in it's vastness as Red Square in Moscow. In addition, some flower arrangements were being completed for the National Day celebrations on October 1st, showcasing the achievements of the past year (namely the train connection from Beijing to Lhasa and the Three Gorges Dam) as well as the 5 "Happy Doll" mascots of the 2008 Olympics.

The Forbidden City was a bit disappointing, as some of the main buildings were covered in scaffolding and green matting for restoration. The courtyards we visited showed only a few artifacts, and were unable to give us a good impression of what life must have been like at the imperial court. We then climbed up 200 steps to a Pagoda overlooking the Forbidden City only to find the viewing area closed for restoration! Lunch was in a courtyard restaurant which was memorable due to its decorated wooden interior in a light oak colour. In the afternoon we ambled along a lakeside near the Hutong area, followed by rickshaw rides through the Hutongs (narrow streets). A visit to a "demonstration" Kindergarden was scheduled, but we felt this was intrusive and, like the visit to the Pharmacy clinic in Hangzhou, felt uncomfortable. Furthermore there was a none-too-discrete "donations welcome" box disclosing the real reason for our visit, yet the fees here were £100 per month—so these were not children in need with parents of little means. We then went to a house/courtyard and had the opportunity to ask questions of the owner. The yard was a Steptoe-like jumble. In that area we were followed by lots of touts selling "Lolex" and watches with a waving Chairman Mao. During our return to the hotel we had another demonstration traffic jam, Beijing style. Apparently most companies in Beijing will give their employees 2 weeks leave for the Olympics (except for key personnel), allegedly in order to minimize the traffic!

Forbidden City, Beijing

Beijing

Tue 26

It was a 2 hour bus drive to The Great Wall at Mutianyu, a scenic restored section near Beijing. A welcome blue sky afforded us stunning views of the surrounding forest-clad mountains. We were able to see some of the ruined sections, and marveled at the industry that went into building atop seemingly inaccessible sharp ridges in the distance. This 600 year old section was originally built in the Ming Dynasty. Our time here was far too short, and we returned by cable car to face the gauntlet of hawkers of fine products for just one dollar.

Factory alert!

Lunch was taken at a cloisonné factory, where copper pots are enameled and gilded before being sold to fed-up tourists. Karen had explained that morning (following an uprising) that the China Travel Service (CTS) require guides to make 1-2 factory visits per day, helping the company reduce costs in a competitive market and remunerating the local guide via a 3% commission. We felt CTS should have disclosed this prior to booking, detailing the number and nature of the visits.

On returning to Beijing we visited the Summer Palace where we walked The Long Corridor to take a boat ride on the man-made lake. This was constructed by Empress Dowager Cixi using the navy budget, shortly before China's defeat in a sea battle at the hands of the Japanese. Other sights in the Palace included an opera stage (now a restaurant), the Marble Boat, and a 17-arch bridge.

Beijing's traffic conspired to delay our return, such that we drove direct to a Peking duck feast feeling tired and dirty. A huge building with many small parlours, groups were fed en masse with great efficiency. Our enjoyment was dampened by hearing ahead of the meal that the ducks are force-fed for 30 days before being slaughtered. The meat was thus very oily, but otherwise wrapped in a pancake with cucumber and plumb sauce much like the crispy fried duck we knew from Chinese restaurants in the UK.

Great Wall, Mutianyu

Yangtze River

Wed 27

In the morning we walked through the popular park surrounding the Temple of Heaven. Elderly Chinese were exercising by dancing (with ribbons, or ballroom style), keeping aloft a small feathered ball, playing a kind of badminton, making music, singing, and practicing calligraphy with water on the pavement. The temple itself was less impressive than a cross-section model of it in an adjacent building. We left the park near a stone alter signifying the middle of the Chinese universe.

Factory alert!

Today's factory gave a brief introduction to freshwater pearls, then launched into the sales pitch. Lunch was taken at restaurant near the airport. Our flight to Yichang was delayed by 2 hours, so we arrived late and agreed to omit the evening meal (we were unexpectedly given given one in flight) in order to arrive at the boat. This involved a short coach trip to the meeting point, where we changed coaches and in a sate of exhaustion boarded the MV Katarina at Maoping sometime around 9:30 pm.

Calligraphy with water, Temple of Heaven, Beijing

Continues here.

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