It was a simple recipe: add 2 inexperienced trampers to untamed alpine rainforest, soak well for 3 hours, chill overnight, sprinkle liberally with fresh snow, and defrost come morning with vigorous exercise.
New Zealand has three areas on the UNESCO World Heritage List. These are Tongariro National Park, New Zealand sub-Antartic Islands, and South West New Zealand. Such areas are "places on earth that are of outstanding universal value to humanity and as such, have been inscribed on the World Heritage List to be protected for future generations to appreciate and enjoy." Although the sub-Antartic islands are not very accessible (let alone hospitable), the other two areas are easily explored. We planned to spend a few days walking the Routeburn track in Mount Aspiring National Park, one four parks in the South West (the others being Westland, Mount Cook, and Fiordland).
We thought we'd prepared well, partly on the basis of a wet and cold camping experience on a Welsh hillside. We figured a summertime walk in New Zealand would involve less arduous conditions, especially since we had walked part of the track the previous year at the same time in light gear and warm sun.
As it happens the rain was torrential from the moment we left the bus at The Divide. No fear we thought—we had our waterproofs and pack covers, good boots, a dry warm bunk bed awaiting us, and high spirits. The experience of a drenching (self plus kit) and a freezing night caused us to reverse course and walk out on the second day, rather than continuing on through snow to the Routeburn Falls hut.
We prefer to think of this as a learning experience rather than a failure, and offer a few tips which we note here in readiness for our next attempt. In walking out the same way we at least got to see the scenery which had been completely veiled on our trek in. All was not lost.
The Routeburn: different when the sun shines
- Good boots don't repel water when submerged in mountain streams
- "Waterproofs" work in both directions; they don't let water in but also prevent perspiration from getting out. So you can choose which way you want to get wet!
- Backpack covers can form reservoirs for precipitation and aid in the saturation of your dry kit; always use plastic bags within plastic bags
- Never count on there being space around the fire to warm yourself or to dry wet kit
- Take food you're going to enjoy; oily fish may provide calories in your freeze-dried paste but may repeat on you all night.
- Speaking of fish, if you're going to take it, don't have it on the first day as you have to carry out the empty smelly tins.
- Never be afraid to turn back if the weather deteriorates; it's the hard decision, but also the sensible one. Giving up isn't fatal—exposure can be.
- Always take quick-dry long-johns (even in summer); hats and gloves help but aren't enough for a night at altitude.
- Choose a sleeping bag that is rated at least one season above the worst conditions you reasonably expect. Protect the bag; plastic inside plastic!
- Take a tea-towel to ensure you pack away your cooking/ eating gear dry.
- Take footwear to wear inside the huts (boots are not allowed inside).
- Hitch-hiking is a valid option for getting from The divide back to Te Anau; don't count on there being availability on the buses running to and from Milford Sound.
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